Two countries fought over this valley for a thousand years. They were right to.
France and Germany traded Alsace back and forth for centuries, and the wine, the food and the fairy-tale villages carry both accents at once. The Grand Cru slopes above the Route des Vins are still worked by families who have held the same hillside since before Riquewihr had a name — and we know which cellar door to knock on, and who answers it.









